Sunday, June 12, 2011

Birkin Overview

It was a big question, whether or not I should start my blog with a posting about Birkins.  This blog is by no means an Hermès blog, yet what is more iconic or luxurious than a Birkin? I have come across blog posts where bags such as my Rebecca Minkoff Jane satchel have been described as Birkin inspired.  If anything, it's more Kelly - and I can't have blog readers who aren't well versed in the Birkin specifics...
Birkins are available in four sizes: 25cm, 30cm, 35cm, and 40cm (referring to the measurement across the front of the bag), various leathers and exotics skins, and any colour you can imagine (if you’re willing to wait on a custom order). They have two handles attached to the body of the bag (while the Kelly has one attached to the flap) and no shoulder strap (the Kelly does).  Birkins have pontets (like belt loops) to hold the strap in place, as well as slits to allow for the handles; you will notice both of these features are absent on a Kelly. Birkins are trapezoidal in shape, but less so than the Kelly, and they have a wider base.  Overall they are considered to be the more youthful bag of the two (I have even seen them described as bohemian!).
the Hermès Kelly bag (left) and Birkin (right)

Prices range from about $8 000 for the “starter” Birkin in Epsom leather with palladium or gold plated hardware, to the $150 000 range for a Porosus (saltwater) Crocodile skin Birkin with diamond encrusted hardware. 
Porosus Crocodile is the most desirable because of the large, symmetrical nature of the scales, and therefore the rarest of the crocodile species Hermès uses.  Other exotic skins available are Ostrich and Lizard (only 25cm).  
A range of leathers are also available, all offering different textures, levels of durability, and stiffness.  The rarest (and most lightweight) leather used is Chevre (goatskin), while the most popular is Togo (a lightweight, textured, scratch resistant calf leather that holds its shape well).
On the inside of the right belt there will be the ID number of the craftsman who made the bag as well as a letter denoting the year the bag was made.  Bags made between 1945 and 1970 have no geometric shape, 1971-96 are encased in a circle, and 1997 - present are encased in a square (therefore, thanks to the L in a square, we know the bag in this picture was made in 2008).  Each bag is made start to finish by the same craftsman and can take from 18 - 48 hours to complete using the company's signature saddle stitching.
If you’re lucky there may also be a celtic cross stamped into the right belt, meaning that the bag was made by a master craftsman.  
Between the handles above the touret (the piece that holds the belt closed that the lock goes on) is the signature Hermès blindstamp (most often) in the same colour as the hardware. The horseshoe to the left of the stamp in the picture on the left denotes a custom order, while the shooting star under the stamp on the right means that the Birkin was made by a craftsman as a gift.  
Craftsmen are allowed to make one bag per year as a gift and shooting star Birkins are not available for resale nor are they eligible for Birkin Spa treatments (an annual treatment included in the price of the bag where you can have your bag sent to Hermès to be freshened up by a master craftsman).





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